Tour Diaries

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March 5, 2010

Posted by Andrew Miller on 03/05/2010

Dancing into the night

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Even when the cricket team loses, the festivities and celebrations do not stop in Bangladesh © Cricinfo Ltd.
No matter what criticism comes Bangladesh’s way after each new whitewashed series, it rarely takes long for the singing and dancing to resume. In the case of their 45-run defeat in Chittagong on Friday, their bouncebackability was so instantaneous, it was already underway before the presentation ceremony had concluded.

As the ever-enthusiastic crowds drained into the fields behind the stands, and the press corps trooped off to conduct the post-match briefing, the sounds of nascent revelry began to float out from the village that backs onto the ground. And as dusk kicked in, the atmosphere kicked off, with all manner of excitement wafting up from an otherwise sleepy community.

The village of Malpara lies a half-hour drive from the centre of town, across two railway lines and past a rickshaw graveyard, and near an expanse of scrap-metal merchants where the spoils of Chittagong’s famous ship-breaking yards are hammered back into shape. It was a quiet fishing settlement long before the Bangladesh Cricket Board parked the Chittagong Divisional Stadium on its doorstep, but happily for the villagers, the impact of the intrusion seems, for the most part, to have been beneficial.

During the ground’s construction back in 2003, many of the local women earned extra income by chiselling bricks while sat beneath flimsy umbrellas, and if that sounds like a hardship then it at least helped establish a firm link with the community. Besides, you’d be hard-pressed to find any children in the neighbourhood whose lives haven’t been enriched by the thrill of big-match cricket on their doorstep.

Just as was the case back then, the villagers’ cows still shelter beneath the stands at night, and occasionally find their way through an unlocked gate, while during the heat of the day, the scrubby grass is taken over by an expanse of drying nets, dotted with contemplative fishermen armed with threads and needles. The Bay of Bengal lies barely a kilometre to the west, where fragile sampans run daily jousts with the mighty freighters of Bangladesh’s busiest port.

But tonight Malpara had an atmosphere that was distinctly out of the ordinary. The flickering glow of bonfires was visible against the night sky, while a row of market stalls had been set up along the perimeter wall, selling trinkets and jewellry, popguns and dolls, and great piles of sticky teeth-extracting sweets and cakes.

It turned out that the villagers were preparing for the spring festival of Holi, the one which involves coloured powder being flung in all directions, and which basically amounts to a religiously sanctioned riot. Bangladeshi culture tends towards the secular, so this is a party for all creeds to enjoy. Aklas, the press box’s irrepressible tea-boy (whose eye for a thirsty hack is quite possibly without equal), sensed my interest in what was going on, and took it upon himself to organise an impromptu tour. The net result was predictably chaotic.

Off we wandered through the narrow and teeming streets, where my fascination and bewilderment was at the very least matched by that of the startled locals, who hadn't bargained for a gangling gora in their midst. Feeling much as I’d imagine Prince Charles to feel in such a situation, I found myself stopping at random stalls along the way, examining the wares on display (including three exceptionally tempting vats of curry), and gesturing “And what do you do?” style questions at their owners.

On a quieter evening, there might have been time to drink in the atmosphere, but tonight that wasn’t an option. Pandemonium greeted my every step, as I was swept through the streets on a tide of revellers, past doorways and alleyways and round and round the houses, before stopping finally at the focal point of the celebrations, the village temple, where a troupe of musicians were playing their drums and flutes and cymbals, with the womenfolk sat at the entrance in their finest saris, soaking up the scene.

A few more rapid introductions later, and off I floated in the other direction, with Aklas leading a merry march, and a train of children in our wake, bouncing off the stalls in over-excitement. And then, within a matter of seconds, I was back where I'd started. In the air-conditioned sanctuary of the press box, reunited with my laptop, and surrounded once again by furrow-browed hacks with their deadlines looming. Back in a world far removed from the one I'd just left behind.

 
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Comments

Posted by: longmemory on 03/06/2010

Don't mean to nitpick, but Holi is not a religious festival. It heralds the arrival of spring and is celebrated by all communities in the region. cheers, k.

Posted by: Shaikat Saha on 03/06/2010

OK. But i think you are quite missing some heartful picture which are belongs to most villagers of bangladesh.

Posted by: Nurul Islam on 03/06/2010

Bangladesh have lost the series 3-0, But I think if two wrong lbw decision (one against morgan in 2nd match, and another is in 3rd match against sakib)Bangladesh might win the series by 2-1. It is an unjustice with bangladesh by ICC to give the responsibility to such careless umpires to direct the matches.

Posted by: Mahfooz on 03/06/2010

Very sorry to correct you, Longmemory. Holy is indeed a religious festival of the Hindu community of Bangladesh. It is widely celebrated in India. Mr Miller hits the nail on the head when he opines that Bangladesh culture is truly secular. The village he visited is inhabited by a Hindu majority. But the Muslim community there, as eleswhere in Bangladesh share their neighbours' festivals. They have done so for a thousand year or so, since the advent of Islam in Bengal. All these have important ramifications for international cricket though. We have no Taliban, Al Qaida or their likes to threaten a cricket match in Bangladesh, unlike, ufortunately as they do in India or Pakistan. Safe venues here, I dare declare! All we have to do is to win the next Test series against the sons, even adopted ones, of Albion! (smile) Best wishes to Team England from all of us in Bangladesh! Let the better team win!! Let Cricket win!! Cheers mates!

Posted by: Mahfooz on 03/06/2010

Aha! One last word of caution. While you do not at all have to worry about a terrorist attack in Chittagong, it is my patriotic duty to warn the visitors of the fiery Chittagonian Curry that Mr. Miller found 'exceptionally tempting'! The non-locals assiduously stay away from these mouth-watering dishes rendered cherry-red with excess of powerful red chilies of the district. Now you know the reason of the type of batting that the local lads Tamim and Aftab usually practice. They must be charged up with extra chili-energy that they are well-advised to down-shift in order to cruise on for the long haul in the coming Tests. However, if you take a mouthful of this tempting rocket fuel Mr. Miller, I am afraid, you are likely to be launched in space without the benefit of the spaceship that Mr. Bronson is building! Ha ha! So stick to such safe local delicacies as 'tiger prawns' from the Bay and the famous 'Goyal Beef' of Chittagong. Enjoy Chittagong's many charms! Cheerio!

Posted by: Mahfooz on 03/06/2010

Hey fellows! Let us not be world champion spoil-sports. Let us not constantly moan about bad umpiring and such other factors for our team's sorry performance this year. Our team must take all these hazards as part of the game and go on to win the next game, if needed, against 13, including the umpires! Sakib seems to have shurgged off the incident and is getting ready for the next battle. Let us not distract the Tigers on the beat by crying fox! After all it is a jungle that the Tigers prowl! They mustn't be afraid! They must prove that they are the Kings of the Jungle, against any odds! Cheers!

Posted by: lipon on 03/06/2010

first try to know the culture about BD, then make comment. what u wana mean by every new whitewash? day by day bangldesh cricket is improving, and u still keep criticizing us?
Mr.Miller r u reporting cricket? or criticizing the oposition?

Posted by: sadiq on 03/06/2010

bangladesh is very ordinery team as qouted by sehwag its very difficult for them to take 20 wickets in test cricket to win the match thier best chance is in one day cricket to upset england which they missed allready by playing some sloppy cricket and they dont have the power in bowling line up to dismiss opponents in test cricket all sppiners once the batsment is set then they find very diffuclt to take his wicket best wishes to bangladesh cricket in finding few fast bowlers

Posted by: Sai on 03/07/2010

Despite of the fact that Bangladesh have come close to winning on a couple of occassions, I would like to see their batsmen learning from their mistakes and not repeating them. As long as they keep doing the same they will continue to be ordinary. Wish you guys a better test series. If you can trouble NewZealand in their own backyard you are definitely capable of beating England in yours if you play sensibly.

Good luck fellas!

Posted by: doyalbaba on 03/07/2010

i believe it is necessary to use referring system in Bangladesh vs England Test series.It is almost no harm for England if there is one or two decision goes against them but for Bangladesh if that happens it becomes a decider. Although Bangladesh improve since 2007 WC.We just need 2 good quickies probably Masrafee and Rasel. Our batting is good and consistent, we have world class spin attack and average fielding ability.If we can continue our improvement,we will become a world class team in WC 2011.By the way,our culture is very rich as ever.Cheers

Posted by: Naveed on 03/08/2010

Couldn't disagree more with Sadiq. Bangladesh have a descent bowling line up. Most of the bowlers in Bangladesh team are, literally, eligible to represent their under 21 team any day. They need time. They have bowled out the Indian batting line up, which consisted of Sahin, Sehwag, Gambhir, Dravid, Laxman below 250 in a first innings of a test played on a batting heaven in Chittagong. They could not repeat the success in the 2nd innings because of some unhelpful sloppy fielding and inexperience. Though they were just short of 2 wickets in the 2nd innings. The point is, if Bangladeshi batsman played to their true strength or if the batting line up was from, say RSA or AUS, then Indian bowling line up couldn't have taken 20 wickets either. By any definition, Bangladesh is no ordinary team. I don't know what's the fuss about pace bowling on a Bangladeshi surface where even Wasim Akram wouldn't get anything, as he actually did not get anything whenever he played there.

Posted by: cna training on 03/10/2010

nice post. thanks.

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